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Have you ever been on a journey that made the past and present blend so seamlessly that you lost track of place and time? An experience so surreal that you earnestly wished to be transported to a different era to feel it closely? Our family trip to Hampi was one such journey for me. If I anticipated being amazed, intimidated and even heartbroken by what lay in store for us, it certainly delivered on every count.
Hampi had been on my bucket list for the longest time. Attribute it to my fascination for Tenali Rama as a child that motivated me to read up about King Krishnadevaraya. Its rich culture, amazing architecture, grandeur, prosperity, and ultimate downfall drew intense reactions from the history lover in me. That stands true for many of our ancient sites and cities though, doesn’t it? When an opportunity to visit Hampi presented itself, I readily lapped it up.
About Hampi
Hampi is located along the Tungabhadra river in the Vijayanagara district of eastern-central Karnataka. It hosts the famous Group of Monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Derived from Pampa, the old name for Tungabhadra river, it is mentioned in ancient Hindu puranas. Kishkinda is another name that connects it to Ramayana. It was the capital city of the Vijayanagara empire and in its heyday was prosperous, wealthy and dotted with numerous temples, farms and markets attracting traders from as far as Persia and Portugal.

Must-visit places in Hampi
Hampi thrived between the 13th to mid-16th century and was believed to be the second-largest medieval city, after Beijing. Its glory still reflects in its dominant Dravidian architecture. Much like Varanasi, it has beautiful temples at every corner that once had idols of Hindu deities and a few Jain ones as well. Most of them lie in ruins now and pay silent homage to the proud history they were witness to. Even the public spaces display carvings that highlight profound faith. One can find elements of Indo-Islamic architecture from later periods.
Vijay Vitthala Temple
Vijay Vitthala temple is the most popular and extravagant site of Hampi that houses the famous Stone Chariot. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this temple has a sprawling campus and houses huge pillared halls, a Rang Mandapa and more. The carvings on the pillars are extremely intricate and detailed. Don’t miss the musical pillars that change tune with different thaaps. The Stone Chariot was commissioned by King Krishnadevaraya and once had a Garuda idol, vahan of Lord Vishnu. It features on the reverse side of the 50 rupee currency note. I went berserk taking pictures here and yet feel they weren’t enough!
Virupaksha Temple
Virupaksha Temple is located on the banks of Tungabhadra river. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva, known here as Sri Virupaksha, companion of the local Goddess Pampadevi. It is one of the few temples open for worship and one of the main pilgrimage sites in Hampi. The beautiful shringar of the devis, Parvati and Bhuvneshwari, was a sight to behold while the temple bells and chants were deeply calming. We were lucky to witness the making of a chariot, a centuries-old custom of Karnataka. The inverted shadow of its 50-meter high Gopuram inside a dark chamber 300-feet away is a must-watch.
Hemakuta and Matanga Hills
Hemakuta hill is located close to the Virupaksha temple. It houses numerous rock temples and structures and it’s elevated position offers splendid sunrise and sunset views. Legend says that Lord Shiva did penance on the Hemakuta hill before marrying a local girl, Pampa. On their wedding day, it rained gold, Hema in Sanskrit, on this hill, hence the name. Also, Lord Shiva burnt Kamadev for helping Pampa marry him and distract his penance here.
Unlike the easy 15 min climb of Hemakuta, Matanga hill is a near-30 min trek to the top and has a magnificent sunset view. However, vehicles can take you up to the temple gate. It is the topmost point of Hampi and offers a spectacular panoramic view of the city. There’s a Lord Rama temple at the base that is open 24*7 and has puja round the clock. The top has a Lord Shiva temple and lots of tiny Shivlings carved in a row into the rock. As luck would have it, we missed both sunsets due to clouds. Sincere regret for an opacarophile like me. Sigh!

Anjaneya Hill
A true Lord Hanuman devotee, I was looking forward to climbing the Anjaneya Hill and seeking his blessings. Believed to be the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, this hill is visible from a distance. Your darshan is earned only after a steep 575-steps climb accompanied by hordes of monkeys that’ll snatch your food and water bottles! Along with Lord Hanuman carved into a rock, the temple also has idols of Lord Ram and Goddess Sita. The air here is filled with devotion. Aartis and bhajans sung by pandits instinctively urge you to join in. The hilltop view is amazing and gives a glimpse of the fertile fields, huge signature Hampi granite boulders and the Tungabhadra river.
Badami Caves
Badami caves are located at a distance from Hampi in the Bagalkot distract of northern Karnataka. A set of four caves, three Hindu and one Jain, they’re a wonderful example of ancient temple architecture. Stunning idols of Nataraja, Mahishasurmardini, Lord Vishnu’s avatars and Mahavir Swami, luckily in good condition, are proof of the creativity and faith of the makers. The Agastya lake view from the top is lovely. A guard insisted we visit the Bhutanatha and Jain temple on the far side of the lake and glad we agreed. The rock carvings there were simply superb! The expansive Aihole and Pattadakal temple sites near Badami caves are also a must-see. One can’t help feeling overwhelmed by the sheer dedication that went into creating such marvels.

Your Hampi trip isn’t complete without the Coracle ride on the Tungabhadra river. Used since the 15th century, the round cane boats called coracles take you for a scenic ride on the serene waters. We spotted a lot of birds like Grey Heron, Great Cormorant, and Egrets along the way and took lots of pictures. Yours truly couldn’t resist an impromptu photo shoot and had super fun doing it! Take the long ride, you won’t regret it.
Apart from these iconic places, you can explore the Hazara Rama Temple, Shri Lakshmi Narsimha Temple, Gagan Mahal, Pampasarovar, Shabari and Vali caves, and lots more. The Royal Enclosure has the Queen’s palace, Lotus Mahal, Elephant stables and watch towers and is a huge tourist attraction. Check out the Tungabhadra Dam by taking the bus tour available throughout the day and enjoy the musical fountain in the evening.

Travel Details
- Hampi is around 700 kms from Mumbai and 350 kms from Bangalore. A road trip takes almost 14 hours and 6 hours respectively.
- Hospet is the nearest railway station while Jindal Vijaynagar Airport in Toranagallu is the closest airport, about 40 kms from Hospet.
- Taxis and autos are available for sightseeing. Try negotiating with them for a better price and do take their inputs on what, when and where to visit.
- Select from several budget to luxury hotels and book online beforehand for convenience.
Additional Information
- Please carry cash in small denominations. There are tickets for the monuments and museums and the online payment process can be painful.
- Carry caps, umbrellas, and warm clothes as required. Stay cool and hydrated with coconut water, buttermilk and other healthy drinks in summers.
- Hire a guide to acquaint yourself with the fascinating history behind every remarkable structure. Its easy to miss if you don’t know what to look out for.
- You’ll find a lot of monkeys in and around Hampi. They don’t hurt you unless they feel threatened. Be nice to them.
- Note that some places charge additionally for professional video cameras.
- Of course, gorge on delectable South-Indian food!
Hampi touches you deeply and leaves an indelible mark on your soul. You feel both privileged and anguished for the magnificence that once was and later plundered and looted beyond recognition. I felt something move inside me every time I delicately ran my fingers over the stone carvings. No wonder they say that travel makes us humble and changes our perspestive towards life and the world. The quote “Khandar batate hain ki imarat kabhi buland thi” has never felt more relatable. Once the epicenter of art, culture, finance and trade in India, now lies in ruins.
Hampi quietly whispers the tale of its royal glory to its visitors. Handed down from one dynasty to another, every king added his signature elements to it and carried forward his legacy. Do yourself a favour and visit Hampi at least once in your lifetime. It deserves it, and so do you.
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